Here are pictures to go along with the posts below. For a change, I'm posting chronologically so that if someone wants to read the whole thread in order it will be easier.
...And here are links to websites I have turned up as I research the refit. Some of them I use a lot, others not at all, but if they might be of use to another refitter, I have posted them here.
Closed on the boat at the Morehead City Yacht Basin in the morning. Cheryl the brokerage accountant had all the paperwork ready and it was a quick, simple process. I paid over a check for the balance due and signed the bill of sale and other papers to have the documentation switched to my name and North Carolina registration applied for. Yes, in NC you have to register documented boats.
Amazon got slow on shipping and failed to get me a big order of refit supplies before I had to come down to the coast, so I didn't have some of the things I needed. But I did find plenty to do. First, I decided to have a look at the batteries and see if they were worth saving. I found two beneath the cabin sole. The foreward one had a badly corroded positive connection but I eventually got it free with the help of PB Blaster. I got the battery out and found it was carrying 12.20 volts and had water over all the plates, so, good signs. I put it on an automotive charger, 6 amps nominal for three hours, then left it unplugged overnight.
Meanwhile, I carried the working jib up to the lawn and spread it out. When we sea trialed, all the hanks on this sail were frozen, so we sailed under one of the genoas. Copious quantities of Liquid Wrench got all but one slug free, and it came loose after some work with pliers and hammer. I lubed them all with 3M 08897 Silicone Spray, something I haven't tried on sail hanks before. I usually use light machine oil or graphite lube, neither of which lasts very long, so time to try something else.
Buck Dawkins came by and took a look at the sail and said it looked to be in pretty good shape. I greatly value his opinion, as he has a lifetime of experience, so that was encouraging. Buck suggested I take the sail home and swish it around in a big tub of water with a little mild detergent, so I put it in the back of the truck.
Checked the foreward battery and found 12.53 volts, so put it back on the charger for a couple more hours. Around noon I took it off and put the aft battery on and let it charge all afternoon. In the evening I reinstalled both batteries. They're weak, but better than they were. At least now I have enough battery power to reliably start the engine. With some power I can also start tracing through the 12 volt system. I expect to do a lot of rewiring, learning as I go.
I pulled a drawer out, gave the interior a light sanding and rubdown with alcohol, and put a coat of Rustoleum white paint on it, then spent the rest of the afternoon packing things away. Yesterday I could hardly walk through the cabin for all the stuff, but today it looks a lot better. As I pack each drawer and locker, I wax the slides to make them work better, and make a list of what's in it. I'm finding interesting old things like a lead line and a whole cache of blocks. I also determined that the oil lamp in the salon does work.
This will probably be the last post for a couple of weeks as I am preparing to go to Florida to visit relatives.
I got one more little job done early in the morning before packing up and driving to Winston-Salem. I put a second coat of white paint on the inside of the drawer. It looks much better than the unfinished wood, which is probably straight from the Pearson plant, circa 1964. All the drawers and lockers will get this treatment, and there are a lot of them.
I can't be down at the marina working on the boat, but there are things I can do where I am. Make up docklines, for one. Defender recommended 1/2 inch Samson Pro-Set three-strand for my boat, so I ordered 100 feet. This gave me a chance to check out Defender, who I hadn't ordered from before. The price was competitive and shipping was quick, so I will definitely use them again. I middled the rope and cut it to give me two 50 foot lengths, then middled each of them and cut so I ended up with four 25 foot lengths. I put an eye in one end of each length, so, 12 inches for the eye and 12 inches for the splice, I ended up with four 23 foot docklines. I still have to whip the bit ends, but that will wait until I get home. I dare say I could find whipping twine in Ocala, but not easily.
By the time I got to Matthews Point and stowed some of the items I brought, it was after dark. I started work on the manual bilge pump with the aid of a drop light. It is just in front of the port cockpit locker, with a round cover over the pump handle. The cover was stuck in place with paint and took a good half hour to chisel free. Underneath, everything was wet and filthy. The pump itself sits in a tub sunk into the cockpit deck, and the cowling that locates the tub in the hole in the deck is loose, so water and trash drains in. Once I got the cover loose I left that project for daylight.
Next I started trying to figure out how to get the rails that hold the companionway hatch cover loose so I could rebed them. I took a fair amount of trim off around the hatch, but in truth I believe all I will have to do is remove three screws on each side that go in through the cabin ceiling, unscrew the steel track that the hatch slide rides on, and the forward part of the wooden slide base should come out. Then I can re-seat it in butyl tape. That should fix a leak that I noticed one day when it rained, coming in around one of the ceiling screws. All the screws show signs of leaking, so this is a job that needs to be done. Maybe it will be an easy introduction to hardware bedding.
An intro to hardware bedding, yes - easy, no. I started with the port assembly. The steel slide came off easily and I got the hatch cover off. The wooden base that the slide bolts to runs full length rather than being two parts, as I thought last night, so it had to be unscrewed all the way back to the aft end of the companionway. I found that what little was left of bedding was silicone, not good since new bedding won't stick to it. So I had to laboriously sand the bedding surface to get rid of every trace of it. Then I laid out butyl tape for new bedding and started screwing the wooden base in place. The aft end was fine, but the forward end screw holes were too soft to pull down. So I scraped off all the butyl tape and packed the holes with Permatex. Once it sets up I will re-drill the holes and get some slightly longer screws, hopefully that will be enough to hold.
After spending half a day with not much progress, I decided to do something where I could see results. Since the companionway hatch cover was off, I painted the underside of it, and also painted inside one of the drawers under the nav station.
When I was home for a couple of days I washed the working jib in the bathtub and stenciled "Working Jib" on the sailbag. To finish off today, I carried the storm jib up to the clubhouse and washed it along with its bag in the sink (the sink is big, like a pot wash at a restaurant). It has some stubborn rust stains that probably won't come out, but it's in good shape, perhaps never used. I got all but three of the hanks free, will work on them some more tomorrow. I raised it to let it dry out. Tiny little thing, about the size of the jib on my old Vagabond 14 dinghy, but heavy cloth with lots of gussets.
On thoughtful consideration, I decided that the wooden bases for the hatch slides should have studs in them so they could be tightened with nuts from in the cabin. The existing screws that came in from the underside of the cabin ceiling were only hanging the wood by a scant half inch at most, and the wood was getting soft. At the hardware store in Havelock, I found studs with wood screws on one end and machine screws on the other, just what I needed. I clamped the wood down and drilled holes almost all the way through, then coated the wood threads with soap and ran them in. The machine screw ends come through the existing holes in the cabin top (I had to enlarge them a bit) and will be secured with big flat washers and nyloc nuts. This has been a tedious and time-consuming project but it is starting to come together.
It rained hard in the morning, but by noon it was over. Once the cabin top dried out, I countersunk the holes in the cabin top, wrapped a cone of butyl tape around each stud (Dan tells me these are properly known as hanger bolts) where it entered the countersink, taped the length of the base with butyl tape, then set it on the cabin top and tightened down the nuts from in the cabin. On the aft end, I overdrilled the holes attaching the base to the fiberglass and trim in the companionway and screwed that down. Finally I set the cover onto the tracks and screwed down the port track to the base. So the port side is done. If it proves out in the rain that is expected in a couple of days, I will use the same method to do the starboard one.
Next I took a look at the sole where it passes between the head and sink. It had collapsed by a couple of inches. It should rest on the shower pan, which rested on stringers that were once attached to the sub-floor on all sides of the cutout for the shower pan. The stringers had come loose, the shower pan had dropped down to rest on the top of the forward end of the water tank, and the floor had dropped with it. Since the screws attaching the stringers are covered by the teak flooring over the subfloor, I decided to think about it a while and see if I could come up with a way to fix it without destroying too much.
In the morning I got on the phone with Wildlife Resources about a little issue with registering the boat and found out what I needed to do to make them happy - no big deal. Afterwards I went to town to pick up supplies for more projects. I decided that I could try using steel straps with pre-drilled holes to make stringers for the shower pan. I intend to try epoxying nuts to the bottom of the straps and screwing into the nuts from above, leaving them loose enough to work the pan into place. Then I will screw them down tight. I'll probably consult with Dan before I try this.
With some time in the afternoon, I started cleaning and oiling interior teak, using Don Casey's method - wipe down with a bleach-detergent-water mix, using a damp cloth. Let sit for half an hour. Wipe down with clean water. When dry, rub down with lemon oil (not lemon polish or lemon wax). It worked good. For anyone who thinks they might like to try refitting an old boat, Don's book "This Old Boat" is almost a necessity.
Old Mr. Roche had installed a rack to hold twelve bottles of wine, and since I don't think I will ever carry that much wine aboard, I removed it. Then I checked the specific gravity in each cell in the two batteries, comfirming what I expected, that the forward battery is in poor condition and the aft in fair. Other than that, I didn't get much done, other than driving in to town to buy tools and supplies. One thing I picked up was motor oil so that tomorrow I can try to start the Atomic 4, warm it up and change the oil.
With Dan's help, we got the Atomic 4 running. However I made no progress on changing the oil. The engine slopes back at such an angle that I could get nothing out of the oil fill, and the siphon hose is too big to go in the dipstick hole. My plan is to get a length of surgical tubing that will fit down the hole and tape it to the siphon hose.
Just to make sure I could do it, I restarted the engine after Dan left to work on his own boat. Here is the procedure:
The motor should start instantly if it is already warm, within a second or two if it is cold. If not, try rapping the carb to get the float to unstick. If the engine requires more than 10 seconds of cranking, turn off the raw water intake to keep water from backflooding the cylinders. Don't forget to open the seacock as soon as the engine starts.
Shutdown is simpler. Turn off the key. Close the fuel petcock. Close the raw water seacock. If you don't need house power, turn off the switch under the ammeter and turn the battery switch to the off position.
That's the procedure on my Atomic 4. I am very grateful to friends, Dan in particular, who know these old engines and helped me get oriented.
After getting nowhere with changing the oil, I decided to root around in the starboard cockpit locker and see what was in there. I found a panel that I was able to unscrew and get to the back of the shift lever, so I squirted some oil around all the joints and pivots. Then I began removing things from the locker. There was an enormous amount of old rope, most of which I threw away. There were several serviceable fenders. There was an old hose, which I tossed, and an electrical cord with rusted and corroded ends, which I cut off, but kept the cord. There was a rope and slat boarding ladder in need of repair, which I kept.
Finally, success with the Atomic 4 oil change. I tried the thin surgical tube down the dipstick hole, but 1,000 pumps got me only about a quart of oil, so I moved on to another method. The reversing gear is in a case at the back of the block and is fed by the same oil as the engine. The cover is fairly accessible. I got the bolts out of it but it was adhered down with gasket adhesive and I couldn't get it off. Later I tried again, hosing the edges of the cover with PB Blaster and then tap-tap-tapping with a light hammer. After several minutes of tapping, the gasket came loose and I was able to get the cover off. Then I was able to pump close to three more quarts of oil out of the case. This plus the quart I got out of the dipstick hole made four quarts, which is more than most people can get out of an A-4. They hold five, but the way the motors are located low in the aft of a boat makes it impossible to get that last quart.
Today's project was to drive to Oriental and talk to the people at Sailcraft Service about having the boat hauled at the end of the month. I got costs on haulout, un-stepping and re-stepping the masts, and monthly shore charges, and all seemed reasonable and satisfactory.
Back at the marina, I decided to take the boat out into the creek and run it under power for a while. My Atomic 4 guru, Dan, agreed to come along, and we got underway around 3:45 in the afternoon. However, due to low water we could not get out of the slip. Oh well, maybe the water will be higher tomorrow. The wind is supposed to veer around to the northwest overnight, and that should allow some water to come in.
I am hoping to get some antifreeze into the motor tomorrow and then go home for a while. I threw the Number 2 Genoa in the back of the truck so I can swish it around in the tub at home and get some of the salt out. Cleaning up the sails is a good task to do when I can't be at the marina. So what exactly is a Number 2 Genoa? From what I could find, the Number 1 is the biggest genoa on the boat - 150% or so - and the Number 2 is smaller, say a 135%. Could have fooled me, this sail in the bag labeled "Number 2 Genoa" must weigh 40 pounds. I had to go get a cart to haul it off the dock.
Arctic air will move in over the next few days and I have to leave for Winston-Salem and Florida, so I completed a final chore, winterizing the motor, before packing up. The procedure is quite simple. Pull the hose off the raw water intake seacock, stick it in a bucket of RV/Marine antifreeze, and run the engine until it sucks up the bucket of antifreeze. From all I have read and heard, this is good enough for my part of the world. People up north or on the Great Lakes have to be quite a bit more thorough.
The ladder on the front of the motor cover had 16 inch gaps between the steps, so I took the whole cover home for a rebuild. My shop partner Joe and I removed the bottom step and reset it lower, then built a new step out of oak to mount between the top and bottom, so that the gaps are now just under 11 inches. The whole assembly will get painted white for visibility and non-skid material will be put on the treads.
Coast Guard Placarding and Fire Extinguisher Requirements: Any boat 26 feet or longer with machinery spaces (essentially, an inboard motor) must display a "Discharge of Oil" placard. Any boat 26 feet or larger must display a "Discharge of Garbage" placard. This is something I didn't have to worry about on Valor since she was less than 26 feet. Fortunately these placards are inexpensive and widely available. The packaging should have details on placement. Any boat 26 to 40 feet is required to have 2 B-1 or 1 B-2 fire extinguisher, on mounting brackets. Valor was only required to have one.
Back in Florida on family business, but so that progress wouldn't halt, I ordered a couple of boat hook ends to be shipped there, and built two new hooks with the ends and supplies I picked up at the local hardware store. I consider boat hooks to be consumables, since I can never hang on to one for more than a few years. These are easy to build and cheaper than commercial ones. I got the ends from Amazon for just over $9.00 apiece shipped, and the plastic pipe, pipe ends, pvc cement, dowels and hardware cost $20.00. Total cost for a four foot hook and a six foot one, under $40.00.
Aboard Terry Ann at Matthews Point, I replaced the sheet metal screws we used to hold the engine cover steps in place while the construction adhesive set with bronze ones and painted the area to the starboard of the assembly. I hung the fire extinguisher and added the placards, getting the boat a little closer to Coast Guard legal. Then I ran the A4 against the docklines in the slip for 20 minutes, just to be sure I could get it started in a day or two when I take the boat to Sailcraft Service.
Main project for the day was to rebed the starboard companionway hatch cover track. Having done the port one a month ago, I knew what had to be taken apart to get the cover and track off, so that process went quickly. I decided to pot the cabin-top holes this time, not the Compass Marine way that requires a dremel tool, but the Don Casey way of just overdrilling the holes, taping the bottoms and then filling the holes with epory. I did take a bent wire and rooted out all the wet, rotten balsa that I could get at. Then I filled each hole with epoxy, stirring it in with a wire and tapping around the holes with a wooden mallet to get out air pockets. Each hole pulled down a fair amount, one of them had an insatiable thirst for epoxy, so my guess is that I filled some fairly large voids between the fiberglass layers.
A note on the epoxy. For an earlier woodworking project, we needed a relatively slow setting epoxy, but all I could find at Home Depot or Lowe's was fast-setting, five minutes or less. So I did what I probably should have done to start with, ordered it from Amazon. I'm finding that if I can plan properly it just makes more sense to order online than mess around with going store to store trying to find things. What I ended up with was Great Planes 30 minute epoxy, marketed for model airplane builders and perhaps available at hobby shops. I have been very happy with it. It mixes up easily with a one-to-one ratio of resin to hardener, it kicks predictably right at 30 minutes, and it cures fully in 8 hours.
Back to the cover track. With the epoxy setting, I started drilling the track for the hanger bolts and got two done quickly. Unfortunately, I broke a bit off in the third and had to spend some time drilling around it until I could get a pair of needlenose pliers in and pull it out. Then I finished drilling the hole and installed the hanger. I mixed up another small batch of epoxy to patch up where I had drilled out for the pliers.
All that is left for tomorrow is to drill out the potted holes in the cabin top, countersink them, lay out the butyl tape caulking, put the parts in place and screw them all back together.To finish off the day I put a second coat of paint on the area I started yesterday, just to starboard of the steps down from the companionway.
First order of business was to take the ferry over to Sailcraft Service, arrange for a haul-out and drop the truck. Matthews Point neighbor and good friend David Wynne agreed to meet me there and shuttle me back to Matthews Point. However, with the wind continuing to blow from the west and southwest, and forecast to strengthen tomorrow, yard staff Shannon and Alan both suggested that I not try to come in Whitaker Creek, due to low water. The forecast is for north winds on Thursday, which should let some water back in the lower Neuse. So, with a couple days until I can yard the boat, I brought the truck back to Matthews Point.
During the afternoon, I redrilled and countersunk the holes for the hanger bolts in the starboard companionway hatch slide, installed the bolts, layered the butyl tape, making sure to cone it up around the bolts to fill the countersinks, and ran on the nuts and washers from the inside of the cabin. Then I reinstalled the cover, the metal track and various trim pieces. That job should be done, but of course I won't be sure until we get a good rain.
With a north wind in the forecast for Thursday the 2nd I made preparations for moving the boat. Thursday morning my friend Lou who also keeps a boat at Matthews Point followed me to Sailcraft Service and shuttled us back to the marina. Lou is an avid sailor and agreed to come along for the sail over to Oriental. After a struggle getting the Atomic 4 to start we took in lines and motored out Clubfoot Creek. There we set sail and beat over to Oriental. On the way in Whitaker Creek I ran us aground but Towboat U.S. was on the spot and got us off the shoal. We tied up in the lift slip at Sailcraft around 4:15 with a lift scheduled for first thing the following morning. I shuttled Lou back to Matthews Point and finished up the day as the sun set.
After the boat was hauled, pressure washed and blocked, I started preparing to have the masts lifted out. First I removed the main sail. There is a gate at the lower end of the sail track on the mast, and with it opened the slugs could be dropped out the bottom of the track. Then I unfastened the clew and pulled the slugs forward out of the boom track. I dumped this huge, heavy sail over the side and then gathered it up and stored it in the back of the truck. Next I detached the main boom from the mast and lowered it over the side, using the topping lift and halyard winch to tip it up so it would slide over the bulwark. I blocked the boom up alongside the boat for the time being. Next I pulled the mizzen sail and boom (much easier than the main). To finish the day I put the registration stickers on the bows.
Saturday dawned far too cold to work, but by mid-afternoon it had moderated enough to get a couple hours in. I started pulling cotter pins out of the turnbuckles and loosening them enough so that the clevis pins at the chainplates could be pushed out when the time came.
A little warmer Sunday, and I got several more turnbuckles loosened, but a few had plastic pipe jammed down over them so thoroughly that that they wouldn't lift off. This old technique was designed to keep the sails from rubbing on the shrouds but the main effect was to trap a lot of dirt and moisture in the rigging, and it is frowned upon these days. I decided that a wood chisel would be a good tool to get the stuck ones off, but the hardware store was closed so I had to wait for Monday to get one.
The chisel was just the ticket to get the plastic pipes off, and by lunchtime I had all the turnbuckles loosened. After lunch Alan brought the lift over and with the yard rigger Travis and I helping, lifted the masts out of Terry Ann. With the masts on saw horses, I started pulling running rigging, and then at Alan's suggestion took a close look at the mainmast spreaders. One proved to be rotten around the base, so I took both of them free. I'll make a replacement for the bad one at home. Next I started removing the standing rigging from the mast tang attachments.
First job was to finish removing all the standing rigging from the mast and coil it neatly so Travis could move it to the rigging shop. With that done, I removed the tangs for the lowers and found elongated holes in the brackets that the tangs attach to. So I removed the brackets so that the machinist could use them for patterns to make new ones. The brackets have spacers inside the mast to keep the mast sides from deforming when the nuts on the through-bolts are tightened. You don't want to lose these spacers inside the mast. The holes on the bolt head side are big enough for the spacers to drop out, so the trick is to run the nuts back on part way and drive them downward until they drop down on the bolt head side. Then take off the nuts and slide the bolts and spacers out together from the lower side of the mast. Don't try to lift the bolts out from above or you may drop the spacer in the mast.
With the rigging loose, I turned my attention to the chainplates. They are easy to find and remove on an Alberg 35. There are small plates on deck that should be removed and then the plates themselves can be unbolted from the bulkheads below deck and lifted out from on deck. I did three and found the bedding to be leaking badly on all of them. The plates themselves were in fine shape. As the machinist noted, the leaky bedding probably helped keep water from pooling on the plates, saving them from corrosion. It's not too good for the deck coring, though. And in the case of the port bulkhead that supports the upper, the water ingress had caused major decay. The bulkhead needs to be cut out and replaced, a major job that will have to be done by the yard structural person.
Even though the chainplates looked good, I decided that a program of replacing them was appropriate, since they are almost certainly 53 years old. We will do the two uppers this year, the lowers next year, the stay plates the year after, and then the mizzen plates. That's assuming I don't turn up any problems when I take the rest of them out for inspection and rebedding...
This was the last day I could spend at the yard, so I got things ready for a three-week absence. First, I cleared out all around the bulkhead to be replaced and shored up a sagging section of the cabin sole. Then I sealed up the chainplate deck fixtures with butyl tape and duct tape to keep out as much water as possible until I can completely rebed them. Then I winterized the Atomic 4, sucking up about a gallon of pink antifreeze through the raw water intake hose. Finally, I showed the yard woodworker and structural person, Jim, the rotten bulkhead and worked out a plan with him for work he could do while I am away. After that, Jim gave me a hand loading the main boom on top of the truck and I motored off toward home.
Back home, Joe and I made a trip up to Wall Lumber and selected a straight-grained section of soft maple for the spreader. We traced the old spreader and cut out the right shape, then started working it with a bench plane. Afterward we started stripping the old finish off the boom.
We finished stripping the boom and filled cracks with epoxy. We got the spreader in shape and coated it with two-part epoxy sealer. We laid the mainsail out in the back yard, rinsed it off and lightly scrubbed some of the stains with dish detergent.
I picked up a quart of Minwax Spar Varnish and we put the first coat on the boom. Then we started work on making a trim piece that goes on the aft end of the companionway slide. We found a piece of salvage teak and after much cutting and planing, got it thin enough to take a curve. We left it clamped up against a badly bowed plank to start setting a permanent arc.