This is how the boat looked when I bought her.

Open foredeck and decent width to the side decks for easy sail handling.

Below deck, small galley to port.

Nav station to starboard.

Settees and pole berths port and starboard, fold-down and out table amidships.

Head to starboard.

Sink and hanging locker to port. Shower amidships, between sink and head.

Big forepeak for sail storage and chain locker.

Long, narrow cockpit, tiller steering, mizzen mast, main sheet.

That's a quick tour of the boat. I'll post pictures below to go along with the posts on the refit.

Batteries in the bilge. Could be worse.

A battery in the forepeak on the charger.

Oil lamp works.

Drawer looks a lot better with the inside painted white.

New docklines. The last one just needs the tags cut off and melted for the eyes to be finished on all four. I'll do the bit ends when I get home.

The companionway ladder had 16 inch gaps between the steps, so we rebuilt it with a third step at my friend Joe's shop.

First steps in making a boathook are to thread a length of dowel into the boathook end and insert a hanger screw to attach to the larger-diameter dowel that will be the main core of the boathook.

Drill and screw the main core dowel onto the screw hanger. Then wrap the section of dowel that is threaded into the hook end with duct tape to bring it up to the diameter of the main core.

Slide the length of pvc pipe over the core and up to the boat hook end. Drill into the pipe and dowel that is inserted in the hook end and insert a set screw to hold the pipe to the end. Cut the core off to length at the boat end of the hook, or add more length of core to get to the end. Cap off the open end of the pvc pipe and drill a lanyard hole if you want one. That's all there is to it - takes about 15 minutes.

Companionway steps and vicinity painted and placarded. This gives an idea of how the boat is going to look with Herreshoff style white paneling. The non-skid on the steps is cheap, easily available at any hardware store, and a snap to apply.

Overdrill holes for through-deck fittings. If the core is already wet or rotted, try to scrape it out all around inside the hole with a bent nail or wire. Then tape them from below and fill with epoxy. Once the epoxy sets up, redrill the holes the right size for the fittings.

Compass Marine has an article on a more elaborate technique for sealing holes for deck fittings which is "best practice". I would suggest reading the article before trying to core holes in a deck, just to see how the professionals do it.

Installing the hanger bolts in the wooden slats that hold the metal strips that the companionway cover slides on. The hanger bolts allow me to bed the slats single-handed, since I can pull them down from below deck by running up the nuts. Otherwise someone has to hold the slats in place on the deck while screws are run in from below.

In the slings at Sailcraft Service.

Back off the screw, swing the gate to the side and the main slugs should come down out of the mast track.

Sail off, ready to pull the cotter pin, drift out the clevis and the main boom will be free.

The elongated hole in this bracket means it's time to scrap the whole thing and have a new one fabricated.

Chainplate for the starboard aft lower in the cabinet at the back of the head. I put a combination wrench on the bolt head on the other side of the bulkhead and jammed it against the cabin wall, shot a little PB Blaster on the nuts and then easily removed them with a socket and driver.

Here's the rotten bulkhead. It's beyond my ability to repair, so the yard will take care of it. They will cut out all the rot and tab a new plywood bulkhead in place.

We used the old spreader as a pattern to cut the new one.

Back home in Winston, Joe and I started refinishing the boom at his shop.